Bushedwhacked
Sep. 26th, 2009 08:08 pmI walked around Cap Ferrat today, thus fulfilling one of my "things to do before die" ambitions. And, not only did I take the 6km walk round, but I also trekked through many of the peninsula's exclusive streets. This, as one might say, is not for the likes of you and me. Although these days I'm more minded to think "never say never".
I got the bus to Port St Jean fairly early. This, it transpired, was a wise move.

Port St Jean. Because it's off the beaten track, the place has a distinctly sleepier feel. I'm not quite sure whether I like it or not. However, it's only 20 minutes to Nice.

The start of the walk. The port is in the background. I would be walking round the Cap in a clockwise direction. I think that this is the better way to go.

Eze. I meant to do a blow-up of this picture but, too late now. If you look closely you can see a viaduct in the centre of the picture. That's the "new" road that connects Eze Village with Nice. To the right and up a bit, sloping downwards from left to right, is a patch of white. That is Eze Vielle Ville. To the right of THAT is a deep valley. That's the route that I took on Thursday down Sentier Nietzche. Eze Sur Mer is hidden by the trees.

Sitting on the dock of the bay.

The path as you start looks deceptively easy.

A nice house.

As one nears the southern tip, the route becomes a little rougher. I saw as many people running this route as I did walking it. One of the guys must have been in his late sixties. It gave me hope.

The houses on Rue Corniche, about 200 feet up, had "back doors" that led to private little swimming areas in the Med. Note the steps down into the Sea!

Rounding the cape, Nice comes into view. The old town (not to be confused with the Vielle Ville!) at the top of the hill is just above the boat.

The route got distinctly narrower at some points!

Villefranche comes into view.

Lots of scuba diving. I want to play.

Just soooo beautiful.

The walk back is a tough 3.1km compared to the easy 2.8km walk down!

After completing the trek, I got a bit disoriented (damn you, Google Maps!) but this had the plus side-effect of leading me up Rue Chemin du Roy, home to the most exclusive of the exclusive villas. And another 2km walk!
I think that this place below was rather cool.
Another place had a discreet security guard at the front gate. I mean, not just for a block of flats, but for a single house.


Half the frontage to one house on the left, plus half the frontage to another. n the right is the frontage to just one place. About 150 yards of it, I reckon. It kind of gives "front garden" a new meaning.

Thence to the Rotschild villa for a spot of lunch. Pity that it cost 10 euro to get in!

One of the interior rooms.

The gardens, consisting of nine "themes". I took a shedload of photos of plants because I think that I went at just the right time of year, with so much stuff in flower.

including the obligatory fountains to music, Bellagio-style!

This shot was obtained by holding the camera out to my left, paparazzi-style.

Perhaps uniquely, the villa has views of both sides of the peninsula. This is the view towards Villefranche, on the way to Nice. Villefranche had an excellent fresh-produce market in full flow at 9.15am on the way out, but by the time I was coming back (about 2.30pm) they were all packing up.
+++++++++++
By the time I got back, I was right cream-crackered, and I had a sleep. I reckon I walked a good seven or eight miles, but the coastal walk was Ace.
In the evening I made the efort to get into the Vielle Ville. I had the most average meal of the trip. Serves me right for going for position rather than food.
Here's one of the places I ruled out straight away.

But I foolishly fell for this one (this is the view from my table -- not sure what Greg Raymer is doing here....)

The fish soup was passable. The steak frites took 35 minutes and was mediocre (that's being kind). The tarte citron was portion-controlled to the point of extinction. This was good, because it tasted of cardboard. I declined the coffee.
Still, if you see a place with a good position offering three courses for 14.90, you should be suspicious....

The Vielle Ville in full flow...

...popping out of the north side, back to the fountains and the grass-tracked tramlines....

... before coming across a man playing a piano piece (a long one, at that!) on the north side of Place Massena.
I leave v early in the morning and it's just occurred to me that the buses might not start early enough. Time to check!
I got the bus to Port St Jean fairly early. This, it transpired, was a wise move.

Port St Jean. Because it's off the beaten track, the place has a distinctly sleepier feel. I'm not quite sure whether I like it or not. However, it's only 20 minutes to Nice.

The start of the walk. The port is in the background. I would be walking round the Cap in a clockwise direction. I think that this is the better way to go.

Eze. I meant to do a blow-up of this picture but, too late now. If you look closely you can see a viaduct in the centre of the picture. That's the "new" road that connects Eze Village with Nice. To the right and up a bit, sloping downwards from left to right, is a patch of white. That is Eze Vielle Ville. To the right of THAT is a deep valley. That's the route that I took on Thursday down Sentier Nietzche. Eze Sur Mer is hidden by the trees.

Sitting on the dock of the bay.

The path as you start looks deceptively easy.

A nice house.

As one nears the southern tip, the route becomes a little rougher. I saw as many people running this route as I did walking it. One of the guys must have been in his late sixties. It gave me hope.

The houses on Rue Corniche, about 200 feet up, had "back doors" that led to private little swimming areas in the Med. Note the steps down into the Sea!

Rounding the cape, Nice comes into view. The old town (not to be confused with the Vielle Ville!) at the top of the hill is just above the boat.

The route got distinctly narrower at some points!

Villefranche comes into view.

Lots of scuba diving. I want to play.

Just soooo beautiful.

The walk back is a tough 3.1km compared to the easy 2.8km walk down!

After completing the trek, I got a bit disoriented (damn you, Google Maps!) but this had the plus side-effect of leading me up Rue Chemin du Roy, home to the most exclusive of the exclusive villas. And another 2km walk!
I think that this place below was rather cool.
Another place had a discreet security guard at the front gate. I mean, not just for a block of flats, but for a single house.


Half the frontage to one house on the left, plus half the frontage to another. n the right is the frontage to just one place. About 150 yards of it, I reckon. It kind of gives "front garden" a new meaning.

Thence to the Rotschild villa for a spot of lunch. Pity that it cost 10 euro to get in!

One of the interior rooms.

The gardens, consisting of nine "themes". I took a shedload of photos of plants because I think that I went at just the right time of year, with so much stuff in flower.

including the obligatory fountains to music, Bellagio-style!

This shot was obtained by holding the camera out to my left, paparazzi-style.

Perhaps uniquely, the villa has views of both sides of the peninsula. This is the view towards Villefranche, on the way to Nice. Villefranche had an excellent fresh-produce market in full flow at 9.15am on the way out, but by the time I was coming back (about 2.30pm) they were all packing up.
+++++++++++
By the time I got back, I was right cream-crackered, and I had a sleep. I reckon I walked a good seven or eight miles, but the coastal walk was Ace.
In the evening I made the efort to get into the Vielle Ville. I had the most average meal of the trip. Serves me right for going for position rather than food.
Here's one of the places I ruled out straight away.

But I foolishly fell for this one (this is the view from my table -- not sure what Greg Raymer is doing here....)

The fish soup was passable. The steak frites took 35 minutes and was mediocre (that's being kind). The tarte citron was portion-controlled to the point of extinction. This was good, because it tasted of cardboard. I declined the coffee.
Still, if you see a place with a good position offering three courses for 14.90, you should be suspicious....

The Vielle Ville in full flow...

...popping out of the north side, back to the fountains and the grass-tracked tramlines....

... before coming across a man playing a piano piece (a long one, at that!) on the north side of Place Massena.
I leave v early in the morning and it's just occurred to me that the buses might not start early enough. Time to check!
no subject
Date: 2009-09-26 09:13 pm (UTC)