A non-Ascension
May. 17th, 2012 07:55 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
peterbirksI've been a bit under the weather. Only metaphorically. The actual weather has remained superb. We have been very lucky. It's probably the first really good week that Nice has had in the past couple of months.
Yesterday we made my ritual trek around Cap Ferrat - a walk which used to be quite adventurous, but which now is mainly an easy stroll. There were a few parts that tested Craig's vertigo, but he managed it. It was his personal best time and my personal worst. I've been developing a cold for the past three or so days and by yesterday it was beginning to have a physical effect. It was bad enough for me to be happy to come back home after we had finished, rather than attempt a tour of the Villa Ephrusse and its gardens.
On the way to Cap Ferrat we had a couple of slight problems. First I had imagined that it was the number 15 bus rather than the number 81. Then we had to trek to another part of JC Bermond station to find the actual stop. Then, when we actually got ON the bus, Craig's 7-day pass got stuck in the validating machine. This led to a delay. The driver got on the phone. By the time we got to the port, a man appeared with a key to unlock the machine.
The walk around Cap Ferrat was reasonably uneventful. We did come across a couple whom I thought were subathing with their giant poodles sitting nearby. But, no, these were "rescue" giant poodles, equipped with their own yellow jackets. Apparently people who go swimming off Cap Ferrat at the several open-sea bathing areas, can get into trouble.
Eze (to the right of the viaduct) from Cap Ferrat.
Me on Cap Ferrat.
In the afternoon we ate the Formule at Le Relax. Craig wanted a starter followed by the main course, while I wanted a main course followed by a dessert. Both the main courses arrived at the same time. We said nothing, but five minutes or so later a youngster (not the waiter) asked what we had ordered. This resulted in Craig having a main course followed by a starter.
I elected to eat my food in the right order. Lemon chicken with basmati rice (delicious) and apple tart (delicious).
In the early evening we wandered down the Promenade to the Negresco, looking at the menu at Le Chantecler. I will eat there one day. But we chose to eat rather more modestly at the Le Bistro Bar. The set standard of chicken & chips. Very enjoyable.
On the Promenade des Anglais on a lovely Spring evening.
On the Promenade des Anglais on a lovely Spring evening, part two.
The Promenade, photo three.
Craig on the Promenade, looking tough.
The Hotel Negresco, now completely refurbished.
Today the plan was to head for Entrevaux, along the Chemin de Fer de Provence, also known as the "pine-cone" line. It's a single-track narrow-gauge railway, called by the Rough Guide "one of the best railway journeys of the world", so please forgive the surfeit of pictures.
As we walked up Jen des Medecins at about 7.45am (there are only four trains a day to Digne Les bains and we planned to catch the 8.50), Craig observed that the French seemed to start work much later than in the UK. I agreed that it was uncommonly quiet, and the Monoprix was also closed.
It was only when we got back that I checked and realized that today was Ascension Day -- a public holiday.
The Pignes line runs to Digne les Bains, a three-hour ride.
The train to Digne les Bains at Gare du Sud
There were a number of weirs on the Var to break up the not infrequent floodwaters.
Another weir.
A dog on the train. It was very quiet, but rather excitable.
A typical view from the train on the way out.
One of many views from the train to Entrevaux
The Var.
The Var
We arrive at Entrevaux!
The train leaves.
The view of the chateau from the outside of the old town.
The river outside the town.
Entrevaux was just 90 minutes. This village is certainly spectacular, based on a roman settlement and turned into a fortress by Vauban. It has a high level, where the Chateau was, and a low level. Before Vauban the only way from one to the other was scrambling up the cliffs. We didn't pay the three euro to climb to the chateau because Craig didn't think he could make the climb and I, feeling rather weak from my cold, didn't think that I could either.
Me outside Entrevaux.
Craig outside Entrevaux.
The river outside the town
Me outside the town
Craig at the entry to Entrevaux.
The entry to Entrevaux, with drawbridge and "murder hole" as you enter the town.
The entry to Entrevaux -- a scooter leaves.
There were several entries to the old town. This one led down towards the rive on the left-hand side. All are protected by a drawbridge.
A view of the Var from the left-hand-side of Entrevaux.
A cat inside the town.
The left-hand side of the town.
Craig inside the old town. The cathedral is to the left.
The old town itself was interesting enough -- a small collection of narrow streets (Wikipedia puts the population at less than 1,000). A 16th-century cathedral and a park that is between the walls and the river were just two of the points of interest.
Inside the town.
A view of the Var from the town of Entrevaux.
A view of the chateau, looking up the hill from the old town.
One of the streets in the old town of Entrevaux.
A restaurant in the old town.
The Var from the gardens outside the town.
Me by the Var, outside the old town of Entrevaux.
Looking up from the gardens, to the cathedral and then the chateau.
Craig in the gardens.
The cathedral.
The inside of the cathedral.
Another cat in the old town.
The "prison" (actually, a rather tiny cupboard).
On the way back to the train, a view of the citadel and chateau.
The cathedral in Entrevaux.
Entrevaux
Me at Entrevaux on the way back to the train.
We stopped off for a coffee and a beer to add to Craig's collection, and got the far quieter train back.
A photograph by Craig of his beer, a new one to add to his collection.
On the way there it had been standing roon only for latecomers (we had arrived in good time and snagged a seat on the two carriage train). Clearly the fact that it was a public holiday was something to do with this.
The station.
Entrevaux station ticket office.
A typical station on the way back from Entrevaux to Nice.
I think that this is Villars sur Var.
A sundial on one of the stations. It was significantly more accurate than any of the clocks on the outside of the stations.
One of the smaller stations. These were "request stops"
A typical view on the way back. The railline and the road back tend to follow the river as closely as possible.
The Var.
An interior shot of the train as we went through one of the several tunnels.
The line is the last surviving route of a wide network in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Not all of the stations remain functional. Property around here is significantly cheaper than Nice or, indeed, elsewhere in the region.
We had another meal at Pasta Basta, which meant that Craig became Mayor of the place on Foursquare. The system here is excellent. You choose your pasta (usually fresh, although you can choose dried pasta if you wish) and then your sauce, This time I went for green tagliatelle with Forestiere sauce Tomatoes and mushrooms). Not quite as the nice as the egg tagliatelle with girolles and cream, but excellent nevertheless. And I had the brownies with ice-cream to follow, because that's easily the nicest dessert that I have had on the holiday.
As a result, I'm getting fat. Some tough exercise and diet regime when I return to the UK.
And so it's evening already. I have had a nap and I feel like rubbish. Not only have I a cold, I have also been attacked by mosquitos. This has only happened in the past few years, since until 1999 I must have stunk of alcohol to a mosquito. Now I just smell like a nice meal.
Tomorrow we will just do a bit of shopping in the morning I think. The weather is definitely cooling a bit, although it's still sunny and I have got a bit red.
Yesterday we made my ritual trek around Cap Ferrat - a walk which used to be quite adventurous, but which now is mainly an easy stroll. There were a few parts that tested Craig's vertigo, but he managed it. It was his personal best time and my personal worst. I've been developing a cold for the past three or so days and by yesterday it was beginning to have a physical effect. It was bad enough for me to be happy to come back home after we had finished, rather than attempt a tour of the Villa Ephrusse and its gardens.
On the way to Cap Ferrat we had a couple of slight problems. First I had imagined that it was the number 15 bus rather than the number 81. Then we had to trek to another part of JC Bermond station to find the actual stop. Then, when we actually got ON the bus, Craig's 7-day pass got stuck in the validating machine. This led to a delay. The driver got on the phone. By the time we got to the port, a man appeared with a key to unlock the machine.
The walk around Cap Ferrat was reasonably uneventful. We did come across a couple whom I thought were subathing with their giant poodles sitting nearby. But, no, these were "rescue" giant poodles, equipped with their own yellow jackets. Apparently people who go swimming off Cap Ferrat at the several open-sea bathing areas, can get into trouble.
Eze (to the right of the viaduct) from Cap Ferrat.
Me on Cap Ferrat.
In the afternoon we ate the Formule at Le Relax. Craig wanted a starter followed by the main course, while I wanted a main course followed by a dessert. Both the main courses arrived at the same time. We said nothing, but five minutes or so later a youngster (not the waiter) asked what we had ordered. This resulted in Craig having a main course followed by a starter.
I elected to eat my food in the right order. Lemon chicken with basmati rice (delicious) and apple tart (delicious).
In the early evening we wandered down the Promenade to the Negresco, looking at the menu at Le Chantecler. I will eat there one day. But we chose to eat rather more modestly at the Le Bistro Bar. The set standard of chicken & chips. Very enjoyable.
On the Promenade des Anglais on a lovely Spring evening.
On the Promenade des Anglais on a lovely Spring evening, part two.
The Promenade, photo three.
Craig on the Promenade, looking tough.
The Hotel Negresco, now completely refurbished.
Today the plan was to head for Entrevaux, along the Chemin de Fer de Provence, also known as the "pine-cone" line. It's a single-track narrow-gauge railway, called by the Rough Guide "one of the best railway journeys of the world", so please forgive the surfeit of pictures.
As we walked up Jen des Medecins at about 7.45am (there are only four trains a day to Digne Les bains and we planned to catch the 8.50), Craig observed that the French seemed to start work much later than in the UK. I agreed that it was uncommonly quiet, and the Monoprix was also closed.
It was only when we got back that I checked and realized that today was Ascension Day -- a public holiday.
The Pignes line runs to Digne les Bains, a three-hour ride.
The train to Digne les Bains at Gare du Sud
There were a number of weirs on the Var to break up the not infrequent floodwaters.
Another weir.
A dog on the train. It was very quiet, but rather excitable.
A typical view from the train on the way out.
One of many views from the train to Entrevaux
The Var.
The Var
We arrive at Entrevaux!
The train leaves.
The view of the chateau from the outside of the old town.
The river outside the town.
Entrevaux was just 90 minutes. This village is certainly spectacular, based on a roman settlement and turned into a fortress by Vauban. It has a high level, where the Chateau was, and a low level. Before Vauban the only way from one to the other was scrambling up the cliffs. We didn't pay the three euro to climb to the chateau because Craig didn't think he could make the climb and I, feeling rather weak from my cold, didn't think that I could either.
Me outside Entrevaux.
Craig outside Entrevaux.
The river outside the town
Me outside the town
Craig at the entry to Entrevaux.
The entry to Entrevaux, with drawbridge and "murder hole" as you enter the town.
The entry to Entrevaux -- a scooter leaves.
There were several entries to the old town. This one led down towards the rive on the left-hand side. All are protected by a drawbridge.
A view of the Var from the left-hand-side of Entrevaux.
A cat inside the town.
The left-hand side of the town.
Craig inside the old town. The cathedral is to the left.
The old town itself was interesting enough -- a small collection of narrow streets (Wikipedia puts the population at less than 1,000). A 16th-century cathedral and a park that is between the walls and the river were just two of the points of interest.
Inside the town.
A view of the Var from the town of Entrevaux.
A view of the chateau, looking up the hill from the old town.
One of the streets in the old town of Entrevaux.
A restaurant in the old town.
The Var from the gardens outside the town.
Me by the Var, outside the old town of Entrevaux.
Looking up from the gardens, to the cathedral and then the chateau.
Craig in the gardens.
The cathedral.
The inside of the cathedral.
Another cat in the old town.
The "prison" (actually, a rather tiny cupboard).
On the way back to the train, a view of the citadel and chateau.
The cathedral in Entrevaux.
Entrevaux
Me at Entrevaux on the way back to the train.
We stopped off for a coffee and a beer to add to Craig's collection, and got the far quieter train back.
A photograph by Craig of his beer, a new one to add to his collection.
On the way there it had been standing roon only for latecomers (we had arrived in good time and snagged a seat on the two carriage train). Clearly the fact that it was a public holiday was something to do with this.
The station.
Entrevaux station ticket office.
A typical station on the way back from Entrevaux to Nice.
I think that this is Villars sur Var.
A sundial on one of the stations. It was significantly more accurate than any of the clocks on the outside of the stations.
One of the smaller stations. These were "request stops"
A typical view on the way back. The railline and the road back tend to follow the river as closely as possible.
The Var.
An interior shot of the train as we went through one of the several tunnels.
The line is the last surviving route of a wide network in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Not all of the stations remain functional. Property around here is significantly cheaper than Nice or, indeed, elsewhere in the region.
We had another meal at Pasta Basta, which meant that Craig became Mayor of the place on Foursquare. The system here is excellent. You choose your pasta (usually fresh, although you can choose dried pasta if you wish) and then your sauce, This time I went for green tagliatelle with Forestiere sauce Tomatoes and mushrooms). Not quite as the nice as the egg tagliatelle with girolles and cream, but excellent nevertheless. And I had the brownies with ice-cream to follow, because that's easily the nicest dessert that I have had on the holiday.
As a result, I'm getting fat. Some tough exercise and diet regime when I return to the UK.
And so it's evening already. I have had a nap and I feel like rubbish. Not only have I a cold, I have also been attacked by mosquitos. This has only happened in the past few years, since until 1999 I must have stunk of alcohol to a mosquito. Now I just smell like a nice meal.
Tomorrow we will just do a bit of shopping in the morning I think. The weather is definitely cooling a bit, although it's still sunny and I have got a bit red.
